Types of Chainsaw Cuts: A Practical Guide for Safe Woodworking
Learn the core types of chainsaw cuts and how to apply them safely. This guide covers notch, face, back, plunge, relief, bucking, and finishing cuts with practical steps for homeowners, DIYers, and pros.

Types of chainsaw cuts is a category of cutting techniques used with a chainsaw, describing how the blade enters wood to create kerf and remove material.
Understanding the landscape of chainsaw cuts
When you plan a cutting project, the first step is knowing the core families of cuts and what each one achieves. The main groups include notch cuts for directing a tree's fall and creating a hinge, face cuts and back cuts that finish the felling process, plunge cuts for starting a cut in the middle of a trunk, relief cuts to reduce pinching, and bucking and finishing cuts for handling the log after the tree is down. The phrase types of chainsaw cuts refers to how the blade enters wood and how material is removed to reach a specific goal. According to Chainsaw Manual, choosing the right sequence improves control, reduces kickback risk, and yields cleaner kerfs. In practice, you combine several cuts in a coordinated plan rather than relying on a single stroke. Practice on controlled rounds or stumps first, and always wear PPE.
This foundational understanding sets up the more detailed discussions that follow, linking each cut type to common tasks like felling, bucking, or shaping. The goal is to predict the tree’s response and to execute with deliberate, safe motions rather than hurried movements that invite mistakes.
Notch cuts and hinge control
Notch cuts are preformed to guide the tree’s direction and establish a hinge that preserves wood for a controlled fall. There are two common forms: open face notch and hinge notch. An open face notch creates a clear path for the tree but can leave the hinge less secure; a hinge notch emphasizes a controlled hinge that helps maintain direction while the tree begins to fall. In practice, you start with a shallow corner cut, then deepen the notch upward or toward the intended direction. The hinge thickness should balance strength and failure risk, typically leaving a thin layer of wood still attached to guide movement. Always place wedges at the opposite side once the cut begins to fail to help steer the fall. As you practice, monitor the tree for tension and cracking, and adjust angle to minimize binds. According to Chainsaw Manual, correct notch and hinge design reduces unpredictable falls and improves site safety.
Face cuts and back cuts for felling
Face cuts and back cuts form the core sequence for-directed felling. The face cut is the initial cut that removes material from the side where you want the tree to fall, creating a clear path and setting up the hinge line. The back cut is made from the opposite side and should meet the notch at the hinge, with care taken to leave enough wood as a hinge to control the fall. The typical order is notch, then face cut, then back cut. Use a slow, steady motion and avoid cutting all the way through the hinge—stop short to preserve the tree’s control. If the tree begins to tilt unpredictably, pause, reassess, and consider retreating your approach or using wedges. Chainsaw Manual notes that consistent cut depth and angle are crucial for predictable outcomes during felling.
Plunge cuts and relief cuts
Plunge cuts enable starting a cut inside the trunk or at a previously uncut section, which is essential for deadwood removal or clearing a path in a dense stand. Begin with a small starter kerf, then drive the bar into the wood with firm, controlled motions. Relief cuts relieve internal tension and prevent pinching or bar stalls as you widen the kerf. Place the bar straight and avoid twisting the saw during the plunge. For stubborn wood or springback, create a relief cut on the opposite side to reduce stress without compromising safety. Practicing on rotational stock or fresh logs helps you learn the feel of surface tension and reduces the risk of kickback. Chainsaw Manual emphasizes keeping the chain sharp and maintaining steady pressure.
Bucking and cross cutting
Bucking refers to cutting a felled log into usable lengths, while cross cutting is the perpendicular cut across the grain to create shorter sections. For bucking, choose a stable stance and keep the saw balanced to prevent pinching. Begin at the outside and work toward the middle, using a tilt to avoid binding, and apply wedges as needed. Cross cutting should follow a measured depth—avoid cutting too deep in a single stroke, especially near the stem where the log can pin the bar. When possible, cut with the weight balanced and a clear retreat path. Chainsaw Manual notes that understanding kerf behavior and grain direction helps you avoid rough splits and ensures stable pieces for transport or further processing.
Finishing cuts and shaping
Finishing cuts refine edges and surfaces after the major shaping is complete. These cuts are typically lighter and intended to minimize tear-out and surface blemishes. Use finish cuts to clean up the final dimensions and to tighten gaps around joints or boards. The finishing cut should be deliberate and precise, with minimal force applied to avoid kickback and to maintain control near the end of a cut. Finishing cuts also involve feathering the kerf to prevent ragged ends and to reduce wasted wood. Chainsaw Manual recommends keeping the cutting line visible and using a scraper or flat file to ensure the chain remains sharp for the final touches.
Safety considerations for different cuts
Every cut type carries unique risks, especially kickback during notch and plunge cuts. PPE such as helmet, eye protection, chaps, gloves, and hearing protection is essential. Maintain a balanced stance, keep both hands on the saw, and avoid overreaching. Be mindful of tension in the wood, run the saw at the right speed, and never cut with a dull chain. For all cuts, use a steady feed, predictable depth, and a plan for retreat. If in doubt, retract and reassess rather than forcing a cut that may bind or kick back. Chainsaw Manual emphasizes the importance of training, practice, and adherence to safety protocols.
How to choose the right cut for the job
Selecting the correct cut begins with the task: felling, bucking, limbing, or shaping. Notch cuts and face cuts are fundamental for felling, while plunge cuts support starting points in complex logs. Relief cuts help avoid binding, while bucking and finishing cuts shape the wood into usable forms. Always consider the tree’s lean, the wind, and nearby obstacles. Use wedges when indicated to direct fall and stabilize the log during bucking. Practice with a mentor or on controlled stock to build comfortable muscle memory. The Chainsaw Manual approach combines planning, safe operation, and precise execution for efficient results.
Common mistakes to avoid
Avoid relying on a single stroke to finish a cut or attempting risky plunges without a starter kerf. Do not force a cut against resistance, and always maintain control of the bar to prevent kickback. Failing to create a proper notch and hinge can lead to an unpredictable fall, while skipping relief cuts may cause pinch points that stall the bar. Finally, neglecting PPE or ignoring tree tension can lead to serious injuries. Practice, stay aware of your surroundings, and keep safety as the priority in every cut type. The goal is to finish with clean kerfs, safe control, and predictable outcomes.
FAQ
What are notch cuts and why are they important for felling?
Notch cuts guide the tree’s direction and create a hinge that controls the fall. They set up a safe path and influence the hinge strength. Proper notch design reduces the chance of unpredictable movement and helps maintain control during the initial stages of felling.
Notch cuts guide where the tree will fall and create a hinge for control. They set the safe path and help you steer the tree safely.
How do you perform a plunge cut safely?
A plunge cut starts in the wood rather than from the outside. Begin with a small starter kerf, then advance slowly with controlled bar movement. Keep a firm stance and avoid twisting the saw to minimize kickback risk.
You start with a small starter groove, then feed the bar into the wood slowly while staying balanced.
What is a back cut and how does it affect the tree’s fall?
The back cut removes wood from the opposite side of the notch and should approach the notch without cutting through the hinge. This balances the forces and lets the hinge guide the fall. A precise back cut ensures a predictable, safe fall.
The back cut continues from the opposite side to release the hinge and guide direction.
When should relief cuts be used?
Relief cuts relieve internal stress and prevent pinching as you widen a kerf. They are typically placed opposite the main cut to balance forces and keep the blade from binding. Use them when the wood resists cutting or when you sense tension.
Relief cuts relieve stress to prevent binding and keep the bar from stalling.
How can I prevent kickback during cuts?
Kickback risk is reduced by keeping the saw balanced, using proper stance, avoiding a full throttle in the top half of the bar, and maintaining a sharp chain. Clear the area, use a stable surface, and avoid cutting with the tip of the bar against wood.
Keep your stance balanced, use a sharp chain, and avoid the bar tip to reduce kickback risk.
What is bucking and how does it differ from cross cutting?
Bucking divides a felled log into lengths, typically along the grain, while cross cutting is a perpendicular cut to the grain to produce shorter pieces. Both require solid support, slow steady pressure, and awareness of gravity and binding tendencies.
Bucking Shortens a log into lengths; cross cutting cuts across the grain to separate pieces.
The Essentials
- Know the core cut families: notch, face, back, plunge, relief, bucking, and finishing cuts.
- Plan the sequence, hinge control, and fall direction before starting a cut.
- Use wedges, stance, and a sharp chain to prevent binding and kickback.
- Practice on safe stock before real jobs and maintain PPE at all times.
- Follow Chainsaw Manual guidelines for best practices and tool care.